A 3-day cycle ride in the Grand Est region: from Champagne to Langres

When you think of the Grand Est region, you think of the vineyards of Champagne. Yet, between Épernay and Langres, we discovered another side to the region: kilometres of cycle routes along the water’s edge, the surprising Lac du Der and a few hidden gems. A look back at a three-day cycling trip.

Day 1: from Épernay to Châlons-en-Champagne

After a 1½-hour train journey from Paris, we arrive in Épernay, the capital of champagne. Before we even set off on our bikes, it’s impossible not to take a stroll down Avenue de Champagne, lined with the great champagne houses that have made the town’s reputation.

To get a bird’s-eye view, we then cycle up to Mont Bernon. The climb is short, but the view over the vineyards and the Marne Valley is well worth the effort.

The rest of the stage towards Châlons-en-Champagne is much more peaceful. We join the V52 cycle route, which runs alongside the Marne Canal. Here, the journey takes on a different pace: no cars, a few locks, fields stretching as far as the eye can see, and nothing but birdsong. In Condé-sur-Marne, we stop in front of a striking water tower standing in the middle of the landscape.

In the evening, Châlons-en-Champagne has a lovely surprise in store for us. After dinner in the town centre, a local resident advises us to pop along to the Maison Joseph Perrier. A few minutes later, we find ourselves in the middle of a huge birthday party at the winery, a glass of champagne* in hand. As is often the case when travelling, the best moments are the ones you hadn’t planned.

Day 2: Lake Der, an unexpected detour

The next day, we headed for Vitry-le-François before setting off for Lac du Der. From the very first few kilometres, the atmosphere changed: quiet country lanes, vast fields and sweltering heat. Then the lake came into view.

Created to regulate flooding on the Marne and the Seine, Lac du Der now resembles a small inland sea. With its beaches, harbours, campsites and kilometres of cycle paths, you completely forget that you’re in the Grand Est region.

You’ll even spot this little chapel by the water’s edge, watching over the lake – it’s magnificent.

With temperatures hitting 35°C, a swim quickly becomes the highlight of the day. We also enjoy the many vantage points overlooking the reeds and the birds that inhabit the banks.

The day ends on a more active note with a long ride to Joinville. Tiredness, the heat and even two punctures complicate matters, but arriving in this charming little town more than makes up for the effort.

Day 3: from Joinville to Langres, the challenging stage

For this final day, the 90 kilometres on the itinerary mean an early start. We follow the Champagne-Burgundy Canal through particularly peaceful countryside.

The first highlight: a superb meander of the Marne with its barges and turquoise-blue water.

Then on to Chaumont, which has a lovely surprise in store for us. Its immense viaduct towers over the valley and its historic centre is well worth a stop.

After Chaumont, the locks come one after another all the way to Langres. We take turns at the front to make better time, knowing that the train home is waiting for us.

And then comes the finale: the climb up to Langres. A proper steep slope that really takes it out of your legs after three days of cycling. But once at the top, the view of the ramparts and the surrounding plain quickly makes you forget the effort.

In short, the Marne Valley Cycle Route is a 246 km route linking Dormans to Langres. Easily accessible thanks to its gentle gradient, it invites you to cycle through the vineyards of Champagne, along the shores of Lake Der, and beside canals lined with forests and meadows, before reaching the fortified town of Langres. It’s the ideal getaway for discovering, at your own pace, the natural, heritage and gastronomic treasures of the Grand Est region.

Discover the route