Cycling the Meuse with Mila and Denni from the "Un monde à vélo" blog
La Meuse à Vélo, a relaxing getaway
Cycling has always been our preferred mode of transport for exploring a region. Open to the world around us, we explore places we'd never have thought of coming to otherwise. Villages and rural areas are now our wellness cure. That's why the 450km of La Meuse à Vélo appealed to us. We knew we were going to discover many unsuspected wonders, but above all we knew we were going to find ourselves in natural areas where we could observe the calm of nature.
In this region with its rich history and shifting borders, we set off in the footsteps of the great names of the past, such as Joan of Arc, Diderot and Arthur Rimbaud. From the south to the north of the route, we watched the Meuse grow in size as the kilometres went by, letting ourselves be carried along on this peaceful walk towards the Belgian border.
We reached the starting point of La Meuse à Vélo in Langres, a beautiful city with a rich past dating back to Gallo-Roman times and very well preserved ramparts. After setting off on our bikes, we reached the source of the river in just a few kilometres and were left in awe. How can such a small trickle of water become a river?
Petite Cité de Caractère, a priceless heritage
After cycling through rolling countryside and the valleys of the Meuse, we began to explore the villages along the route, some of them high up in the mountains. When we plan our cycling trips, we always make it a rule to allow 15% more kilometres than estimated, so that we can leave the cycle route regularly and have time to discover the various points of interest.
One of our most memorable detours was to Bourmont, an old fortified "Petite Cité de Caractère". The tour took us to Parc de la Roche, an incredible site that has undergone many changes over the years. A little further up the park, the Cona walk took us to Notre-Dame church in the shade of the lime trees, offering us a superb view of the valley and the beautiful Renaissance buildings of the village.
Further on, Neufchâteau revealed its secrets to us. Joan of Arc was already present in this beautiful town with its unique heritage, having taken refuge here several times with her family. To fully appreciate the town's hidden treasures, you need to push open the doors on guided tours organised by the Tourist Office.
In the footsteps of Joan of Arc
Just a few kilometres from Neufchâteau, Domrémy-la-Pucelle is a truly memorable stop-off point, whether or not you know the story of Joan of Arc. A heroine of the Middle Ages, it was here that she was born and heard the voices telling her to deliver France from English occupation. Along the meandering banks of the Meuse, there are many references to her presence and courage.
Along the Meuse à Vélo route, we passed the impressive Basilica du Bois-Chenu, built in memory of Joan of Arc. Although it was built fairly recently (late 19th century), the building is a true masterpiece. A short drive away, we visit Joan of Arc's childhood home, complete with a highly interesting interpretation centre on the history of the heroine.
The memory of the Great War
In Verdun, the duty to remember led us to climb the infamous battlefield. The memorial dedicated to this offensive, which lasted almost a year, left us on the verge of tears. The unbearable living conditions of the soldiers are recounted in an educational way, but also with a truth that is hard to grasp, so inhuman it seems.
The battlefield is easy to visit by bike. Surprisingly, we enjoyed the peaceful ride through this natural shroud covering the 90,000 soldiers who could not be buried and remained here, under these trees. It's a tranquillity that contrasts with the marks left on this land by artillery fire, which are still very present and impressive.
Verdun, a pleasant little town on the banks of the Meuse, seems far removed from the battle that struck its surroundings, even if a few places of remembrance make reference to it. With its various historic monuments, its cathedral, its ramparts, its terraces and its small marina, the place has everything to seduce. We particularly enjoyed our stay at Maison Mirabeau, a magnificent, comfortable bed and breakfast on the edge of the town centre.
Castles, ramparts and citadels
Moving further north, the architecture has evolved. In Mouzon, we explored the impressive abbey church of Notre-Dame, as well as the Porte de Bourgogne, a vestige of the old fortifications. Mouzon also marks the start of the Trans-Ardennes, a greenway along the Meuse that we followed as far as Givet.
Along the greenway, Sedan came into view. Home to the largest fortified castle in Europe, the town is well worth a visit. Not far away, Charleville-Mézières is a unique city with two town centres. Mézières was once surrounded by ramparts, earning it the nickname of the "Carcassonne of the North". The Place Ducale, on the Charleville side, is a Renaissance masterpiece and the gateway to theArdennes massif.
The landscape has changed in the heart of the massif, with villages now nestling on the banks of the Meuse. Such is the case of Monthermé, nicknamed "the Pearl of the Meuse", a splendid town nestling in the heart of a loop in the river. Givet marked the end of our journey as we approached the Belgian border. Its vast citadel dominating the town is impressive. With its pretty cobbled streets and riverside bars, the town is a great place to wander around - a fitting end to our trip.
Natural landscapes along the Meuse à Vélo route
Between valleys, hills, rural areas, limestone cliffs and lawns, and small mountains planted with trees further north, the Meuse à Vélo was a delight in terms of the variety of its landscapes. The gentle itinerary offered us the daily pleasure of observing animals that we wouldn't have seen if we'd been in a car. Herons, birds of prey and birds of many colours and species accompanied us.
Further north, we really enjoyed exploring the landscapes of the Ardennes massif. Along the loops of the Meuse, embedded between these hills rising to an average altitude of 400 m, the views were magical. All we wanted to do was get off our bikes and go for a few days' walk in these verdant massifs. A great excuse to come back as soon as possible to discover all these magnificent regions.
And what about you? What are you waiting for to get on your bike and discover La Meuse à Vélo?