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Discover the Grand Est region through the art of glassmaking

Antoine Vitek, from the blog culturezvous, travelled the length and breadth of the Grand Est region, following in the footsteps of the greatest master glassmakers. Yes, the Grand Est is a land of exceptional expertise! Here's his account and his favourites.
Baccarat, Lalique, Daum, Saint Louis... all these great names in crystal are based in the Grand Est region. It's also here that you can discover Aube, the department in Europe with the largest surface area of listed stained glass. So why is glass art so highly developed in the Grand Est? And where should you go to admire this centuries-old art? This article takes a look at the must-see sites!

The Grand Est: home to the art of glassmaking!

On paper, making glass is pretty straightforward: all you have to do is melt silica sand until it becomes liquid enough to give it the shape you want. In practice, it's more complicated... because master glassmakers have to heat their kilns to over 1400 degrees, which required a huge amount of wood before more modern kilns were invented.

In the 14th century, lords who owned vast forests saw the glassmaking industry as an opportunity to enhance the value of their lands and gave the glassmakers the title of gentlemen. Then, in 1448, Jean de Calabre, Duke of Lorraine, exempted master glassmakers from all taxes. These advantages helped to settle glassmakers in eastern France and boost the reputation of glass in Lorraine and the wider region.

Lalique

Where can you see glassworks in the Grand Est?

Head for the Musée du Cristal Saint-Louis (Saint-Louis-lès-Bitche) to discover the oldest crystal works in Europe, created in 1567! Here you can admire exceptional pieces such as the globe created in 1818 as a gift for Louis XVIII. Tours of the workshop are also available by prior arrangement, giving visitors an insight into the work of the glassblowers (hot-working) and the decorators and engravers (cold-working).

In Nancy, Daum has established itself as a major luxury brand, working with many artists including Salvador Dali and Hilton McConnico. You can see some of Daum's finest pieces at the Musée des Beaux-Arts or in the official boutique, both located on Place Stanislas in Nancy.

Boutique Daum
Musée des Beaux Arts de Nancy
Magasin Daum
Cristallerie Saint-Louis

Learn from glass artisans

The art of glassmaking is still very much alive in the Grand Est region, where many craftsmen continue to perpetuate this art. If you'd like to try your hand at it, I'd recommend booking a workshop with Théophile Caille, a passionate glassblower in Nancy, who will teach you how to make little jewels.

Atelier du verre

A land of stained glass, now with its own town in the Aube...

The Grand Est is also a land of stained glass! The department ofAube, in particular, has the most listed stained glass in Europe, with 9,000 m2 of windows dating from before the French Revolution.

A Cité du Vitrail has just opened its doors in Troyes to celebrate this art form, explain its history and showcase stained glass windows at eye level so we can better observe them. Conceived as the gateway to stained glass in the Aube region, the Cité is an invitation to discover the Route du Vitrail, an itinerary that takes in some sixty remarkable buildings. It will make you realise that the art of stained glass is anything but a dead art, since many contemporary artists are bringing it up to date by pushing back the boundaries of manufacturing techniques.

Cité du vitrail
Cité du Vitrail

3 must-sees in Aube

In my opinion, there are three buildings with remarkable stained glass windows that are a must-see:

Saint-Laurent church in Nogent-sur-Seine

Recently restored, this small church is home to a collection of stained glass windows created by artist Fabienne Verdier, accompanied by master glassworker Flavie Vincent-Petit. Although apparently very simple, it took a great deal of research to create the yellow ribbon that runs across the panels like a divine breath circulating from bay to bay.

Troyes Cathedral

Troyes cathedral alone has 1,500 m2 of stained glass windows. The oldest date from the 12th century and the most recent from the 18th century. A visit to the cathedral gives you an overview of the art of stained glass through the centuries.

The church at Eaux-Puiseaux

The church's original stained glass windows, destroyed by the storm of 1999, have been replaced by contemporary windows. Created by Flavie Vincent-Petit, the windows depict the creation of the world and pay tribute to the flora and fauna of Eaux-Puiseaux.

Other remarkable stained glass elsewhere in the Grand Est!

Aube is not the only department in the Grand Est to have remarkable stained glass windows. Elsewhere in the region, there are many other sites worth a look. Here are just a few...

Art Nouveau stained glass windows in Nancy

In the city of Nancy, famous for its Art Nouveau style, there are a number of stained glass windows that are a must-see. One of them is the LCL boutique on rue Saint-Georges, which boasts a monumental 250m2 glass roof, one of the masterpieces of the École de Nancy glass painter Jacques Gruber.

Chagall's stained glass windows in Metz and Reims

The famous painter Marc Chagall (whose work includes the ceiling of the Opéra Garnier in Paris) also created a number of stained glass windows. The Grand Est region boasts two exceptional sets in the cathedrals of Metz and Reims.

Convinced? Then head for the Grand Est to discover the art of glassmaking!

Cathédrale de Reims
Vitraux Majorelle

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