Travel diary :  As a couple, Mountains, Responsible travel, Wellbeing

A slow-paced break in the Vosges mountains

Amélie and Benjamin from the adventure blog Hellolaroux explored the Vosges mountains in the heart of a comforting and invigorating winter. Nature and well-being formed the backdrop to a holiday packed with discoveries. Here's their account and their favourites.

Randonnée raquettes dans le Massif des Vosges

The Vosges mountains: a hiking paradise

There's no better way to immerse yourself in nature than hiking. Become one with the elements, raw and unadorned. Breathe in the invigorating mountain air, feel the wind whip your cheeks and forget about time. I don't think there's a better feeling than that after a bit of effort, when you're walking through unparalleled landscapes. We were delighted, and our stay was as luminous as the weather, which was more than conducive to playing outside. We managed to strike the perfect balance between wanting to be full of adventure and letting go. Three hikes allowed us to appreciate the diversity of this majestic massif. Three hikes with very different faces, each offering us some pretty incredible panoramic scenery. It has to be said that there's plenty to do in the Vosges mountains, with no fewer than 16,500km of waymarked trails.

On our first day, we joined Jean-Michel, our naturalist guide, at the unmissable Champ du Feu in the heart of the Bruche valley. You can recognise this roof of the Bas-Rhin from afar thanks to the stubble fields. This is one of the few Nordic ski areas that is entirely free of charge, and a meeting point for locals who come here to get away from it all. Numerous snowshoeing and cross-country skiing trails allow you to appreciate its many facets and immerse yourself in this tenderly preserved nature.

On our second day, this time in the company of Vanessa, we set off to hike the ridges of the Hautes-Vosges. Unlike the Champ du Feu, as we approached the summit of the Hohneck, the vegetation disappeared, leaving slopes battered by the winds. The few remaining trees are frozen by the magic of winter. Then we walk through a lunar landscape that is unmistakably reminiscent of high mountains and Scandinavia. Clouds cover the Alsace valley and the Black Forest looms in the distance. On a clear day, you can even see the Alps from this vertiginous hike.

The ephemeral sunset at the Temple du Donon, our last hike, was one of our other favourites. But it didn't start well. Caught in a stifling mist, walking along an icy path, we weren't sure we'd see the summit in the open. But that was without counting on the thermal inversions which, once again, demonstrated how quickly the weather can change. When we finally reached the top of the promontory, the Donon inspired us to let go with its mysterious, almost mystical aura.

Sleeping at the Landscape hotel: 48° North

To make the most of our discoveries, we had to find accommodation that would become our cosy nest for the next few days. We chose the 48° Nord hotel, because it's all about design and being environmentally friendly. As we leave the curves of the road, strange wooden houses rise up like trees. Intriguing, yet perfectly embedded in the landscape, these so-called " hyttes " are sure to make an impression.

48° Nord Hotel
Vosges

Here, top-of-the-range meets ecology. Because behind the architecture and the very Instagrammable side of the hotel, there is in fact a virtuous approach supported by Emil, the owner. For example, the construction of the hyttes is 100% from local forests and did not require any clearing, even though the hotel was built on a Natura 2000 site. But the responsible approach doesn't stop there. In the same spirit, the restaurant offers a locavore menu, using ingredients from the in-house kitchen garden or from producers located within a 150km radius of the hotel. The result on the plate is a surprisingly successful marriage of Alsace and Denmark.

48° Nord is exactly the kind of address we like to discover. The form doesn't take precedence over the content, and the content doesn't hold back the desire to offer something visually beautiful. On the contrary, the two correlate perfectly, demonstrating that it's possible to offer a top-of-the-range product while at the same time living up to your ecological convictions.

Authentic discovery in the Bruche Valley

This very natural Vosges holiday was also marked by the wonderful encounters we made along the way. Perhaps you like to discover a region through the eyes of its inhabitants by meeting them, sharing moments with them and listening to their personal stories. In the heart of the Bruche Valley, where we've been for the past 4 days, craftspeople welcome you with open arms to show you a little of their lives, a little of their homes. The Tourist Office has developed a number of tools to help you immerse yourself in their daily lives, based around the "truant experiences" programme. This is the case of Luc, an organic baker, and Yvan, a designer of wooden toys, two enthusiasts we met. Each of them has their own story to tell, but what they have in common is a deep love of their region, whether it's where they come from or where they've adopted it. At the same time, the office has also developed nature excursions accompanied by locals who, for the occasion, will become your guide for the day. In our view, this desire to involve local people, to make the most of them and to include them in an increasingly responsible approach to tourism, is one of the most authentic ways of discovering a region.

The Bruche Valley

    Exception at La Cheneaudière

    Before leaving the Vosges mountains and heading back to Strasbourg, we indulged in one last moment of rejuvenation in a spa that is literally exceptional. The hostellerie de la Cheneaudière is a Relais et Châteaux in Alsace with a reputation that's second to none. Nestling in the heights of the village of Colroy-La-Roche, the views give you the impression of being in perfect harmony with nature. All that was missing were the big snowflakes to complete the magic of this mineral-filled setting. We couldn't have wished for a better way to end this cocooning natural interlude.

    This stay halfway between Alsace and Lorraine was more than rejuvenating. Rich in discoveries, we sensed a preserved region where the locals work hard to ensure that this Vosges treasure remains cherished and untouched. Far from mass tourism and guided by responsible local initiatives that we can only recommend, the Massif is a natural treasure trove that aspires to remain so. Ideal for families and couples alike, we came back with stars in our eyes and our bodies and minds refreshed. And what about you? What are you looking forward to?

    Read all about Amélie and Benjamin's stay and see the photos here